"Ceviche (and more) at Celeste; bún đặc biệt from Saigon NV Celeste, 21 Bow St., Union Square, Somerville; Saigon NV, 381 Main St., Malden. One of my favorite meals of the week was actually a frantic last-minute order. I landed on Saigon NV, which was entirely new to me, and since ordering closed in three minutes, I quickly picked the bún đặc biệt, basically a feast over vermicelli: grilled shrimp, grilled pork, egg roll, and deep-fried shrimp paste wrapped in bean curd skin, served with lettuce, basil, bean sprouts, and peanuts, with fish sauce. I absolutely loved it, and now I think I’m on a mission to try every bún đặc biệt in the city." - Rachel Leah Blumenthal