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"A spare, hymn-like bar menu that signals austerely delicious cooking, typically offering a tight rotation of 9–10 savoury plates anchored by roast bone marrow with parsley salad alongside bread, salads, Welsh rarebit and a cold sandwich. The terse, epigrammatic dish descriptions (think faggot and peas; cold roast kid liver with anchovy; jellied skate and mayonnaise) precisely reflect a rustic, nose-to-tail sensibility in the kitchen. Desserts play strongly on nostalgia, usually including a hot pudding, a fruit jelly, a mess, a parfait, something with butterscotch, sorbet and vodka, and staples such as Eccles cakes, Lancashire cheese and madeleines." - Jonathan Nunn