"“New York-style pizza” is too often used as a generic term for American pies cooked in a gas-fueled oven. So when you find a true example of the thinish, foldable delight far outside the five boroughs, it’s cause for jubilation. Josh Sickels hewed to the classics when he opened in a Pittsburgh suburb in 2017, gradually embracing the “third/new wave” style of pizzaiolo using high-quality ingredients and bakers’ techniques without trying to reinvent the wheel. Rockaway’s tray pizzas (especially the upside-down) and specialty builds like white clam pie are also a celebration of craft. Good news for city folk — Sickels will move the operation to Regent Square later this year." - Melissa McCart, Hal B. Klein