
3

"There’s something ironic about how Ginza Onodera, one of the country’s most expensive sushi spots, affords a striking view of the New York Public Library; lunch is a relative deal at $130–$180 (service included) versus about $450 at dinner. In a recent lunch service chef Takuya Kubo sent out 12 precise pieces of Edomae sushi over 90 minutes, gently torching Japanese barracuda for smoke, grating a touch of lime over akami to freshen lean bluefin, and serving everything on generous mounds of sharply vinegared rice." - Robert Sietsema