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"Stopping in Boyle Heights, I found the Acosta family’s carnitas to deliver perhaps the 'purest flavor of pork' I’ve encountered in a taco: the pig parts emerge caramelized and herbaceous, generously salted but not overly so, and when I split open a whole jalapeño and squeeze its vinegary juices over the meat that addition sets off pinwheels and sparklers — a light show of acid and sugar and richness. Beyond the humble taco, I indulge in the cheesy mulita when my hedonistic urges strike and welcome the occasional surprise riff on carnitas made with salmon, while the weekend birria has become a staple at many popular trucks. I left smiling not only for the truly incredible food but for the heartening scene of a multigenerational family working together in Boyle Heights." - Farley Elliott