"This sleek, black-and-grey modern Korean restaurant has the vibe of a restaurant in a much larger city, likely due to chef Joe Kim’s time at Michelin-starred big-city restaurants like the French Laundry and Alinea. Kim has been a three-time James Beard semifinalist for his creative and meticulously executed dishes. He’s turned his talent to his favorite dishes from childhood, and diners can sample them in the nightly dinner tasting menu. Banchan includes multiple styles of house kimchi, made with everything from fermented fennel to apple; from there, diners opt for ssam choices like crispy duck and dak-twigim, or fried chicken thighs, with accompaniments like red leaf lettuce, toasted seaweed, or sesame leaf. The bibimbap is an expert balance of flavors, served in a hot granite dolsot bowl that continues to crisp the rice through the meal." - Barb Gonzalez, Jeffrey Stull