"New York is becoming ever richer in the regional cuisines of India, and especially South India. We have a handful of places devoted to Chennai (the former Madras), Hyderabad, and Kerala, but only one that specializes in the cooking of Cochin, now known as Kochi, on Kerala’s southern coast. Taste of Cochin offers several surprising dishes, many of which are found only on the paper menu. Don’t miss molly, a mellow dish of fish chunks in coconut milk (shown), or the red-sauced and toasty-tasting Malabar fish curry. Several recipes also contain beef, which is unusual in an Indian restaurant. Duck and vegetarian dishes also abound, all best accompanied by Malabar paratha, a flaky flatbread." - Robert Sietsema
