"That the caff, the most British institution there is, has been sustained in London by Italians is not news: Regency and Pellici are the two most famous examples. What has gone relatively unheralded is the type of British-Italian cooking that sits alongside the fry-ups. British Italian cooking culture is taking a mound of perfectly cooked, saucy spaghetti puttanesca that any Italian would be happy with and then adding three liberal dustings of parmesan, a whole chicken escalope and a cup of tea into the mix, a blissful lunch that can be experienced at Dorino Tabrizi’s Alpino’s in Chapel Market, which has been doing the same thing for 80 years without fanfare. The escalope crops up again in bountiful baps and club sandwiches but don’t miss the austere option: grilled kippers, butterflied with dollops of butter, toast, and two poached eggs." - Jonathan Nunn
