Review: Lord’s Is British Meat Done Right in NYC | Eater NY

"Tucked in Greenwich Village, I find this damn-fine restaurant is packing the house with gutsy British fare — a dark, woodsy tavern that’s never not packed, yet same-day Resy seats often show up. Owners Patricia Howard and chef Ed Szymanski have turned up the volume on old-school, viscera-forward cooking: tripe jiggles in Madeira sauce after being braised with calves’ feet until it takes on a warm Jell-O texture; solid strips of intestine wobble like a meaty panna cotta; blood sausage and pig’s face enrich a cassoulet-like bowl of beans; and an ox-cheek pie steams with Stilton and is topped with bone-marrow butter, the meat rendered to a slithery texture. Duck-stuffed cabbage is ground with a little liver, heart, and gizzards, which give the inky prune sauce a complex, earthy sweetness. Start with plump warm oysters dotted with guanciale and caramelized onion, and don’t miss the scotch eggs, here coated in a lamb farce that leaves profound notes of garlic, curry paste, and funk. The Guinness-laced Welsh rarebit tastes like it was foraged from an old ashtray yet works perfectly — sharp cheddar, stretchy sourdough, Marmite umami, and a Cantabrian anchovy’s ocean punch — while the deviled crab toast disappoints as devoid of seafood flavor. The sirloin au poivre lets you dredge binchotan-grilled meat across a pool of gelatinous sauce rather than assaulting you with peppercorns. Szymanski also squeezes enormous depth out of grilled maitakes and chanterelles with lentils (the glaze tastes like a veal-like stock, though it’s a vegetarian bread stock), and for dessert I found the $8 brown-butter ice cream mealy and couldn’t finish it — so have another martini and hope Lord’s stays easier to get into than Dame." - Ryan Sutton