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"At the Time Warner Center's third-floor mall, I found David Chang's Midtown outpost to be slyly thrilling: the Dover sole here is intentionally unpretty — cooks griddle it under a weight for a hard sear, serve it skin-on and head-on (unusual for flatfish), and the firmer flesh becomes a conduit for ramekins of fermented red and green chiles while the coral-hued skin evokes matcha or nori; it tastes more of seaweed, acid, and fire than of the ocean, and is priced at $43. The restaurant embraces its mall setting while maintaining soul: a long bar, cramped booths, and an open kitchen feel like a packed 24-hour diner, patrons dunk porky buns into jus (a future-minded French dip), and specials range from a Viet‑Cajun buttery Gulf shrimp over rice to beef katsu with panko and agrodolce, gochujang-laced pork shaved into bang bread at lunch, and a planned tartufo nero ramen for about $49. Changian touches abound — globally curious plates with American and Asian leanings — including a majestic smoked pork ramen (bacon-y and smoky), garlic chicken ramen, chile-laced cold noodles, $28 fried chicken buns topped with smoked trout roe, and a $29 white‑truffle shave over hozon soft serve; overall, Noodle Bar feels like a unique, democratic response to the mall's extravagances, riffing on fine-dining luxuries at far lower prices." - Ryan Sutton