"Pablo Bonilla’s restaurant Sikwa, in San José’s Los Yoses neighborhood, has led the way, strengthening relationships with fishermen and foragers. The chef has also been working closely with Indigenous communities like the Boruca and Bribrí to resurrect ancestral dishes. The operation was originally located in a small corner in a cultural center, but since 2021, Bonilla has served a seven-course tasting menu from a more formal, jungle-themed space, complete with a full bar of original cocktails utilizing ingredients like passion fruit mead and breadnut bitters. In 2024, Bonilla is opening the 30-seat Crudo Izakaya Latino next door, melding Japanese and Costa Rican flavors." - Nicholas Gill