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"An intimate, ten-seat kaiseki in the former Ichimura space, this restaurant’s $295, 10-course menu overseen by chef Manabu Asanuma unfolds in seasonal ceramics with dishes like hairy crab with tomato, caviar, tosazu jelly, and shiso flowers; chawanmushi with foie gras, nameko mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, and mitsuba; and unagi rice with maitake mushrooms, chicken soboro with chives, and pickles. Other courses highlight Asanuma’s range — think hairy crab chawanmushi with persimmon and foie gras, Pacific mackerel with ikura, and matsutake rice wagyu — but the distinctive note is a soba course: Yamagata soba noodles with scallion, chives, and sesame oil, crafted from Mogami Wase buckwheat grown on his family’s farm in Yamagata Prefecture. The result feels personal and polished, reflecting a résumé that runs through Ucho, Odo, and Sushi Ichimura." - Andrea Strong