"For D.C. residents, sampling the most tantalizing brisket inside the Beltway requires a drive into Riverdale Park, Maryland. Fernando González and Debby Portillo, the couple that own and operate 2Fifty, pay homage to Central Texas by using oak smoke to develop a dark bark on fatty hunks of prime and American wagyu beef that jiggle on the chopping block. Beef ribs, pulled pork, sliced turkey, and St. Louis-style ribs are all available, while daily specials (think brisket tacos and barbecue pupusas) give the kitchen a creative outlet, and González and Portillo excitingly nod to their Salvadoran heritage in sides like red kidney beans braised with brisket and coleslaw interspersed with raisins. Diners can preorder for pickup Wednesday through Sunday with the option to dine there or take it to go. 2Fifty expanded with a sit-down smokehouse in Mt. Vernon Triangle this year." - Tierney Plumb, Emily Venezky