Dunsmoor Review: Food History Roars to Life Over an Open Hearth in Glassell Park | Eater LA

"Watching former Hatchet Hall chef Brian Dunsmoor sear meats and vegetables over a roaring hearth is a dramatic nightly show in a stunning, high‑ceilinged room with massive windows and candlelight on Eagle Rock Boulevard. Open since 2022, this Northeast LA favorite celebrates lesser-known preservation and fire techniques over live coals (a commitment that began with his rotating pop-up, Fuss and Feathers), and I come for satisfying bluefin tuna toast and Pennsylvania Dutch dumplings with chicken, ham, and beet‑pickled egg. When I sit down, I order Edna’s sour milk cornbread inspired by Edna Lewis, here loaded with Hatch chiles, cheddar, and a lavish amount of butter. The beautifully grilled mushroom‑crusted pork chop with thyme and smoky lard belongs beside Carolina gold rice, while Aunt Emmy’s pork and green chili stew with flour tortillas and cheddar warms the soul on cold nights. Sides deserve real attention—cheddar‑and‑chive potatoes and ham hock–braised greens with pepper vinegar are crowd‑pleasers—and if I’m with a group, a bottle of Tilted Mile’s mineral‑forward sparkling wine from the Central Coast fits the table. Every seat feels ideal (bar dining is especially wonderful) with the hardworking line visible from the room, and the long tables often spark conversations with nearby diners. I try to book just before sunset to watch the west‑facing space shift moods, and if the burger special is available, I order it." - Mona Holmes