April Bloomfield's First Trip to France
"A certified, working‑class bouchon that revels in hearty, regional fare: frayed banquettes and plastic flowers set the unpretentious tone while a brusque, exacting waitress enforces the mood. The kitchen turns out rustic specialties — homemade terrines (beef, chicken, skate, a veal terrine that elicited amused curiosity about its cut) and airy quenelles de brochet baked until the tops are crisp and served with a decadent shellfish sauce — dishes that are meat‑forward, comforting and unexpectedly joyful." - Lauren Collins
