"An intimate, ten-seat Long Island tasting counter offering a 17-course menu that feels like a fine-dining laboratory: concise, haiku-like preparations using hyper-local produce and seafood (duck-egg scramble with Kaluga caviar, Sound fluke with gremolata), presented in a quietly luxurious, low-capacity setting at a price below comparable city tasting rooms." - Alan Sytsma, Beth Sacca