The Great Italian Sandwiches All’Antico Vinaio and Galioto’s

"A counter-service, plant-based take on an Italian delicatessen that bills itself as a first-in-Little-Italy concept by owners affiliated with the vegan Mexican chain Jajaja and nearby Da Gennaro. The menu replaces classic meats and cheeses with vegan simulacra (quotation-marked “ham,” “corned beef,” and almond-milk “mozzarella”), with mixed results: some replacements are rubbery and unconvincing, but there are pleasant surprises such as crisp fried calamari rings made from hearts of palm, comforting cold deli-style pasta salads, a notably successful Impossible “meatball” parm with firm-but-crumbly texture, zippy tomato sauce, and a crusty roll, and a springy pizza bianca topped with roasted-seeming eggplant and harissa aioli that is rich and satisfying. The custardy vegan mozzarella rarely adds much but doesn’t ruin the better items." - Grub Street