

5

"For publication eve we went to A16 in Oakland (quiet, only a couple of other couples) and ate squid with deep-fried cranberry beans and lemon slices, strands of bucatini-like maccaronara with a Naples-style ragù and shaved dry ricotta, and sautéed Brussels sprouts; the Campania red I ordered was delicious — supple and acidic — and the check, about a hundred bucks, explained why we don’t come more often." - Chris Crowley