"Perched on forested slopes, Sintra’s fairy-tale chimneys, turreted palaces and folly-filled gardens have a magical feel. Perhaps it’s the town’s origins as a Celtic centre of worship, or its cool hilltop air, which often wraps the trees in mist and which has long attracted writers, artists and aristocrats in search of a summer retreat; it might even be the ley lines on which it’s said to sit. Whatever the reason, it’s a fascinating place to explore - particularly once the day-trippers have departed. This lovely little B&B is ideal for visitors who want to stay overnight and experience the town at its best. Hidden off a cobbled square in the historical centre, it occupies a 19th-century house that was rescued from abandon and transformed into a sanctuary as soothing and sweet as the Portuguese honey-water after which it’s named. Within its high white walls are 5 light-filled rooms dressed in softly shimmering wallpapers. There’s also a breakfast room-cum-lounge with cushioned nooks, plus a geranium-scented patio where you can linger over the homemade cake laid on every afternoon. All in all, it’s stylish, homely and, like Sintra itself, brimming with historic charm. Highs Sintra is one of Portugal’s gems - a beguiling little place that Byron once compared to paradise. It’s within easy reach of some glorious beaches, tooA beautiful renovation of a graceful old house, which shows in every detailWe loved the 2 Superior Rooms, which open onto a shared balcony gazing out over the plains far below. You might even spot the sea sparkling on the horizonDelicious breakfasts are included in the very affordable ratesSpoiling touches: free tea, coffee and cake, an honesty fridge with soft drinks (you can store your own tipples, too), and a bottle of red wine if you book through i-escape Lows The B&B has changed hands and we have yet to meet the new owners, but we're told little has changedNot so great for light sleepers; the bar across the square can be noisy and the bedroom walls aren't completely soundproofNo on-site parking, and finding a space nearby can be tricky. Consider arranging a transfer or arriving by trainThis is an old building so expect things like creaky floorboards and steep staircases (no lifts)Bathrooms are open-plan, so you’ll need to be on good terms with your travelling companion" - Abi Dare