Dar Roumana, Fes, Morocco - Explore & Book

"The ‘house of the pomegranate’ is a spectacular residence just inside the medina's upper walls, with biblical views from its crows nest over close-packed rooftops and minarets. It was only after moving in that US-born Jennifer discovered these views - and knew she’d struck gold. But she also worked hard for it. For 3 years she supervised the pain-staking restoration of its ornate, tall-ceilinged bedrooms. Minutely-carved wooden screens and stucco friezes were cleaned with toothpicks and wire wool; the splendid court gleams with blue-white Fassi tiling. Besides the burbling fountain is a ceremonial bartal (alcove), cosy with guides, city maps, a sleeping cat and Sebastian’s guitar. His flawless flamenco accompanies you as you wind up steep stairwells to the roof terrace, strewn with leather pouffes and inviting sofas. You can take dinner up here too (a happy fusion of local ingredients and high-end cooking), before lazing under the stars with a satisfied grin on your face. Highs The Royal Suite (Yasmina) is one of the most splendid riad-rooms in Fes; and the other 4 aren't far behind From the moment you arrive, Jennifer and Sebastian treat you as friends; they can take you on a guided tour of the medina and its food markets Dinners are fresh and varied, made with ingredients bought from the market first thing that morning You’re away from the medina’s hustle and bustle (even the dawn prayer call is more muted here), but only 10 minutes’ walk to the heart of the souks The roof terrace is a lovely space for post-souk relaxation, with its sheltered seating, raised crow’s nest and the rustle of a huge plane tree alongside Lows The ground-floor Roumana Suite lacks privacy (close windows and shutters before wandering about your room in a state of undress!) and air con A couple of bathrooms lack natural light It’s hard to find - though only 5 mins’ walk from either Bab Guissa or Ain Azlitan gates, where you can be met We've heard intermittent reports of noisy dogs and cockerels - bring ear plugs just in case" - Michael Cullen