"No.1's classic Georgian frontage, with its stone-pillared portico and shiny-black double-doors, suggests townhouse grandeur, pomp and circumstance. Step inside, however, and… hello, this is rather cool! Black curtains frame a high-ceilinged hall with a mirrored cabinet of flickering silver candle-sticks, and a black-walled stairwell (decorated with black violins) that sweeps up three floors to a glass canopy. To the left, a toy train rumbles around a fire-warmed clubby bar where Johnny Cash plays on a turntable. To the right, a golden-hued sitting-room, with creamy floorboards and big abstract art, invites relaxation with velvet armchairs and sofas. Downstairs a vaulted spa beckons, while at the far end an atmospheric dining room promises innovative food with a focus on the area’s flavour.The vibe is lounge-y and fun – this is the second of the small-group, family-friendly GuestHouse hotels – with witty touches, such as model trains, that reference the city. Throughout, walls are hung with a jolly jumble of contemporary portraits, still lives and framed vintage worksheets for DIY home furniture. Bedrooms, on the other hand, are spare and light, with milky walls, floaty muslin and – oh joy! – turntables and vinyls. Just the right restorative space after doing the city’s sights. Highs We love the witty, arty and assured style, from the black-painted violins lining the staircase to the vintage-inspired dining room and the eclectic art collection Fun touches in the bedrooms include retro turntables and vinyls, plus hospitality trays and home-made biscuits hidden in a doll’s houseIf arriving by train, the hotel can meet with a luggage-bike and whisk away your bagsThe Pantry’s complimentary treats – ice cream, sweets, cakes, crisps and soft drinks – are generous and irresistible Lows The hotel sits on a busy main road – extra care needed with children – with no interesting views Apart from a small road-facing terrace at the front, there’s no garden or outside spaceThe ‘small’ and ‘standard’ rooms (around half the total) can be a squeeze; you need to be tidyThe hotel is very dog- and child-friendly; there’s a chance it may not be as tranquil as you might wish" - Helen Pickles