Le Grotte della Civita, Matera, Southern Italy - Explore & Book

"Le Grotte della Civita is a truly unique hotel, set in Unesco-listed Matera. Overlooking the deep Gravina gorge, the town's old quarters (sassi) are built into and over limestone caves, and interwoven by narrow cobbled streets. Inhabited since prehistoric times but abandoned in the 1950s, these remarkable underground spaces are now being reinvented as restaurants, boutiques and even art galleries.The hotel itself consists of 18 such cave rooms, all renovated over 10 years with obsessive attention to detail and utter respect for the past. We arrived on a misty night and opened our gnarled wooden door to find a 6m-high vault flickering with candles, like our own private cathedral - a truly sensational first impression. Simple wooden furniture, carved crosses and cosy nooks are the only visible decoration; but closer examination reveals concealed spotlights in the walls, underfloor heating beneath the time-worn stones and, in many rooms, an oversize egg-shaped Starck bathtub in the depths.With fantastic breakfasts, friendly English-speaking service from Michele and his team, and wonderful trattorie and ancient rock-hewn churches on your doorstep, it's an unforgettable break from your day-to-day travails. Highs Incredibly romantic, with glowing candles at every turn – and there’s a true cultural element to it, tooThe caves themselves are an architectural triumph. All are different – some have soaring ceilings and roaring fires, others spectacular views of the gorgeMatera is a beautiful town with a fascinating history. Its narrow streets and prehistoric landscape offer a taste of rural Italy that you won’t find elsewhere But it’s not just caves and old churches: there are cool boutiques, fountained squares and buzzing eateries to exploreHotel breakfasts are delicious: home-baked cakes, handmade jams, herb-dusted cheeses Lows It’s pretty hard to find, and you’ll have to park on the edge of town (though you can drop off luggage first). Be sure to bring the detailed directions provided when you bookThe caves are scattered across a slope, with public pathways in between, and it’s a steep climb to some of them from receptionStandard Rooms can be cramped – upgrade to a Superior or higher if you canExpect uneven floors and limited mod cons (no TVs, minibars or the like), though amazingly there's WiFi throughoutIt's quite expensive, especially in busy periods (April, May and August), when rates double" - Michael Cullen