"Osakana has one massive leg up on the competition: It’s a fish market. The little East Village spot sells tuna, horse mackerel, and slabs of salmon belly so rich they qualify as butter, and you can all that same fish in sushi takeout form. Place an order online, then pick up an order of thick-cut sashimi or an oblong box of chirashi scattered with a jewel-like assortment of fish and Hokkaido uni." - bryan kim, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, sonal shah