"What happens when you smash together a beach house, a giant patio, the bar from an old pub, and a karaoke club? You get Sân Vườn Cafe. The Vietnamese spot just off the Gulf Freeway feeder looks like an eight-year-old obsessed with waterfall murals designed it. It’s chaotic but charming and full of quirks you won’t find anywhere else. And the food’s spectacular. Walk past the giant fish tank and the karaoke stage with beach lounge chair seating and head straight for the sprawling backyard. If the shire randomly popped up in South Houston, it would probably look like this. Complete with a koi pond (bring 50 cents for fish food) and a double-decker patio overlooking the adjacent trailer park, the somewhat ramshackle tables are the best places to sit. It seems devoid of modern awareness, and 10 bucks says someone’s taking prom-style photos on the waterfall-spanning bridge. photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen While we suggest ordering anything the server tells you to get, you can also stick to what’s popular. Like dê hấp lá tía tô, a steamed dish of tender, thinly sliced goat with soft perilla leaves and a tangy shrimp sauce. Or a gỏi ngó sen tôm thịt, a crunchy lotus root salad that tastes the same way a cool fan blast on a humid day feels. Every dish is fresh, mounded with herbs and pickled vegetables. Even the Thai-style hot pot arrives surrounded by an aroma cloud of lemongrass and ginger. photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen photo credit: Quit Nguyen While this place may look like a chaotic relative’s party garage, the food and kind service are impressive, especially when you’re watching someone belt out karaoke at midnight on a Saturday. We say embrace the vibe, grab a handful of bò lá lốt, and appreciate that whimsical places like this exist. Food Rundown photo credit: Quit Nguyen Bò Lá Lốt Wrapping food in another food to wrap it up in yet another food is one of the best ways to eat. So this dish of lemongrass-spiced ground beef swaddled in peppery betel leaves that are stuffed into lettuce with herbs and pickled carrots is not one to pass up. photo credit: Chelsea Thomas Gỏi Ngó Sen Tôm Thịt Every bite of this salad is fantastic. It’s sharp and refreshing and ever-so-slightly tangy. Pile the salad onto crunchy rice wafers before dousing the whole thing in fish sauce. photo credit: Chelsea Thomas Dê Hấp Lá Tía Tô The key to this dish is timing. Only let the thin-sliced goat and perilla leaves steam for three to four minutes before removing everything from the heat. Timed right, each bite comes out tender, with a hint of licorice flavor. It’s a small portion, so order it on the side of anything else. photo credit: Quit Nguyen Lau Thai Hot Pot The actual pot for this dish has a wide collar extending from the top making it look like an upside-down beach hat. It’s perfect for sliding the toppings, like cubes of tofu or fresh greens, straight into the delicious boiling Thai-style broth steeped with ginger and okra." - Chelsea Thomas
