Giacco's Bar - Review - Highbury - London - The Infatuation

"There are all kinds of pubs along Blackstock Road—karaoke ones, Irish ones, Arsenal ones—but this part of Highbury is lacking if you fancy listening to a momentous life update alongside a glass of gamay and a piece of focaccia. Which is where Giacco’s comes in. An Italian wine bar and restaurant that looks at the definition of ‘tight-knit’ and squeezes in an extra candlelit bar seat for good measure, it’s the kind of pleasing (but not scene-stealing) second date spot that everyone needs in their back pocket. On the regular menu there are a few pleasing if skippable starters—a salty crudo here, and an obligatory burrata there—but you’re better off saving yourself for the pastas. A rich trough of papparadelle with duck ragu that mixes gamey flavours with the comfort of a chicken soup laughs in the face of small plates restaurants, and although Giacco’s doesn’t break any boundaries, it’s a much-needed addition to Blackstock Road. Food Rundown Seabass Crudo There’s a scattering of samphire, Amalfi lemon zest, shallots, and cucumber on top of this crudo and it makes for a handsome dish. The flavour is a little one-dimensional, with saltiness dominating. With a bit more of a citric kick it would taste as good as it looks. photo credit: Jake Missing Puntarelle Salad Something not entirely right has happened with the dressing on this salad; the honey mustard and the parmesan have joined to become a mealy textured thing, but it still tastes really good. The puntarelle is nice and crunchy with a pleasing bitterness to it and the addition of anchovies on top works perfectly. photo credit: Jake Missing Ravioloni Ricotta, Nettle, Sage Butter In case you didn’t know, raviolini is ravioli that’s hit a growth spurt and joined the gym. These are thick duvets of pasta filled with ricotta and nettle. It’s thick, comforting, and positively swimming in butter. photo credit: Jake Missing Pappardelle Duck Ragu A silky combination of white wine, stock, and strands of soft duck meat. The long belts of pappardelle are perfectly made and even in a portion as big as this, they don’t overcook as you eat it. It’s a great and generous bowl of pasta. photo credit: Jake Missing" - Jake Missing