"The hoagies at this pizzeria are built with sesame-studded rolls made in-house and stuffed with things like finocchiona, coppa, and a tart slaw whose wispy red onion shavings weave together with radicchio. The crackly bread soaks up excess vinaigrette while still maintaining structural integrity, and the middle bits get more exciting with an optional side of “hoagie jazz”—a garlicky anchovy spread spiked with calabrian chiles. Yeah, some chicory strands will probably slide out, but that’s a small price to pay for such a masterclass." - aimee rizzo