At Café 2001, sophisticated food with an awkward vibe - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Café 2001 has its peculiarities. Located behind Yess in the Arts District, the only signage outside this all-day bistro is spray-painted plywood that might read “OYSTERS/WINE/DONUTS” one week and “HOT DOGSSS” the next. The furniture is tattered in a way that’s less vintage and more “we found this in the alley,” and there’s an eerie emptiness that even an upbeat playlist can't fill. After a few visits, we’ve accepted that whatever artsy vibe Café 2001 curates goes over our heads, but we do think it shines where it counts: serving an elegant Japanese-European menu that’s sophisticated enough for a proper sit-down lunch, but unfussy enough for a midday coffee break. photo credit: Sylvio Martins photo credit: Sylvio Martins video credit: Sylvio Martins Pause Unmute This all-day spot is run by the former sous chef of Yess, and while the two neighboring spots do share a penchant for minimalism, the food at Café 2001 heads in a more casual direction with more successful results. A thick slab of terrine—well-seasoned and beautifully marbled—is surprisingly light for being made of gelatinized meat and pork fat, even before you balance it with pickles and salad. Crispy, triangle-shaped hashbrowns serve as toasts for smoked trout and sour cream, and the pork tenderloin katsu sandwiches are 90% lean, juice-oozing pork. After 4pm on weekends, Café 2001 morphs from cafe to wine bar with a tighter, more Asian-leaning menu. There’s a $20 dumpling and glass of wine special that speaks to Happy Hour fans, and baskets of sake-brined Japanese fried chicken served with Kewpie mayo. Even as the menu changes, the awkwardness of the room does not. It's still quiet enough at dinner to hear cutlery clinking downstairs from the second floor. But as long as you don't mind a bit of stilted silence, Café 2001 is a well-rounded option for a daytime meal in the Arts District. The coffee is good, the food is simple and well-executed (with the occasional fun twist), and there's usually a little something sweet for after lunch. Food Rundown Smoked Trout, Hashbrowns, and Huckleberries If you love a bagel and lox plate situation, order this. The hash browns are light and fluffy, and the huckleberry jam and sour cream complement the salt-kissed fish. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Pork Tenderloin Katsu Sandwich Move over thinly pounded cutlets, we’re into these extra-girthy slabs of pork tenderloin. The soft milk bread and fried crust are more of a textural bonus for this delicious pig-centric sando. photo credit: Sylvio Martins House Terrine Plate This terrine is filling, but somehow tastes lighter than it looks. Its specks of fat smear beautifully on the side of toast, and it comes with cornichons and a vinegary side salad to cut through the meaty pork bits. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Caponata The onions, tomatoes, and eggplant in this chilled caponata are sweet and jammy like farmers market marmalade. It's a bit odd as a standalone dish, but excellent when eaten between bites of fried chicken. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Crispy Beef Gyoza Crispy beef? We don’t see it in the filling, nor do we taste it. However, the ground pork inside has a nice scallion flavor. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Japanese Fried Chicken The single best dish at Café 2001. The rice flour dredging is so thin you can see the meat peek through under the chicken's glass-like skin, and the subtle sweetness of sake and earthy chili flakes comes singing through in the brine. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Lemon Tart Café 2001’s lemon curd is so good you can order it separately with yogurt, parfait-style, but we prefer it as dessert, baked on a buttery shortbread crust instead. It’s as bright as a Teletubbies sunrise but not-too-sweet, and the side of sour cream enhances the citrus tang. photo credit: Sylvio Martins" - Sylvio Martins
