"12 years in, Gemma revamped its white-tablecloth vibe and Mediterranean menu and emerged as a more casual neighborhood bistro. (The cool blue tones and ornate woodback chairs are the few leftovers of its past life.) It’s never been better, and the hard-seared steaks with crackly onion rings or double wagyu cheeseburgers with confit onions make the French food here feel a little more Texan. And thick slices of jalapeno and grapefruit segments dress up classic Italian ingredients—think burrata or garlicky breadcrumbs—like spurs on boots. Your order can be as refreshing or heavy as you want, with an extensive raw bar and a whole section dedicated to meat and frites. Plus, the pappardelle with rich ribbons of rabbity goodness is still on the menu, if you're looking for a taste of the original Gemma." - Nick Rallo
