The Choice - Review - Bryn Mawr - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"It’s been a while since we were wowed by a restaurant that plays smooth jazz versions of pop covers. But what The Choice lacks in musical selection it more than makes up for in delicious European fusion food. The Bryn Mawr BYOB offers one of the best fine-dining-yet-relaxed experiences you can get on the Main Line, and manages to straddle the line between classic technique—confit, beurre blancs, and gratin, to name a few–infused with Asian ingredients. You’re likely to find Main Liners on double dates, sharing bottles of wine that cost more than your rent, and tweens in khakis suffering through dinner with grandma. But The Choice offers dining options to suit anyone—an a la carte menu, or a six-course tasting at $80, $100, or $120. Leveling up in price doesn’t mean more food, but rather upping the luxury, like swapping shrimp for foie gras, and duck breast for A5 wagyu. Unlike tastings that insist the whole table be on board for the same menu, here you can mix and match, allowing dining companions to sample everything. We particularly enjoyed the foie gras and beef dumplings, octopus and mushrooms in soy garlic broth, and duck confit salad. Most of the tasting is also offered a la carte, so try everything on a special occasion visit and then double down on your favorites for a casual weeknight date. Food Rundown Tuna Tartare Straddling the sweet spot between tartare and ceviche, this course embodies the fusion of European classic (tartare) with bright Asian ingredients (ponzu dressing and a sweet rice vinaigrette). The homemade potato chips for dipping are reason enough to order it. photo credit: Jonathan Deutsch Scallops in Shredded Filo Dough One of our best bites of the year, generously sized scallops are wrapped in shredded filo and lightly fried, then topped with creme fraiche and caviar. They are slightly too large to be politely popped in a single bite. Do it anyway. Dumplings with Beef and Foie Gras Another fusion winner, these pan-fried dumplings envelop a tender piece of beef with a foie gras chunk that essentially melts into sauce inside, making this like a fatty soup dumpling. Octopus with Mushrooms and Vegetables Throughout the tasting, we wanted spoons–or straws–for the broths. This time, chunks of octopus tossed with asparagus and shiitake mushrooms go umami on umami with a rich soy garlic broth. Duck Confit Salad A boneless thigh of duck confit is seared to crisp and topped with an orange glaze alongside a torn green salad. The sweet sauce mixes with the vinaigrette and duck fat for unexpected sweet and sour take-out vibes. Smart. New York Prime Steak After such a strong start, we were surprised that the steak is stringy, cooked to medium well. A cloying teriyaki sauce didn’t do it any favors. photo credit: Jonathan Deutsch Pecan Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream The smart fusion touches nuanced throughout the meal don’t seem to make it to the dessert menu. We’re too full to care. photo credit: Jonathan Deutsch" - Jonathan Deutsch
