"Kira in River Oaks could be mistaken for a play about sushi in a black box theater. The Japanese restaurant from the team behind Neo has a wooden counter at center stage and 15 seats for its audience. Kira focuses on handrolls, with chefs routinely placing the temaki in your hand as if they were crisp $100 bills. When people aren’t eating nori stuffed with bouncy salmon roe or lobster, they're scooping spoonfuls of donburi with puffs of fresh wasabi. And every piece of amberjack and sea bream inside your bowl balances the warm sushi rice that all but melts underneath the fish. A meal here should be prioritized when you need a special occasion with a side of himari. Seats at Kira fill up quickly, and there’s typically only a day-of reservation at 5pm or 9pm on most days of the week. If you’re interested in a primetime spot, online reservations open up three weeks in advance. But if you recently won the lottery and want to test your luck further, you can show up right when they open and check if there’s a free seat." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene, andrew ryce