"Every dinner at The Happy Crane should start with the Golden Coin. The appetizer is an umami-loaded stack of butter-grilled bao, rosé-infused chicken liver mousse, and coppa so melt-in-your-mouth that it pulls apart like cotton candy. The only problem? You’ll be dreamily reminiscing about it until the meal ends. Order one apiece to get ahead of any infighting. The Happy Crane releases reservations on OpenTable 30 days out at 12pm." - patrick wong, julia chen 1, lani conway