Paesano's Review - Italian Market - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"In this unpredictable life, exes send fluke "U up?" texts and people from Neptune Beach, Florida win the lottery. That’s why we appreciate Paesano’s, a consistently good Italian restaurant that reopened in 2022 after being closed and moving locations. This casual Italian Market spot is more reliable than the famous, old-school restaurants nearby, even if it gets less attention. Paesano's fits right in on this stretch of 9th Street. It's a time capsule of black and white tiling, family photos, candles dripping wax, and pasta rollers from the days of 10-cent gas. Although the restaurant is known for sandwiches, Paesano's is still the sort of place where you should sit down. There are plenty of tables to defile lasagna and chicken cutlet hoagies while you watch someone sniff a melon like it's a scented candle through the windows. Order at least one sandwich. There are 16 on the menu, each of which seamlessly weaves textures and high-quality ingredients, like what might happen if a suede bubble couch came with some tang and saltiness. Our favorite version is The Paesano, served on a soft, chewy Liscio's roll. It has juicy strips of beef brisket, horseradish mayo, roasted tomato, pepperoncini, sharp provolone, and a fried egg, making this essentially a remixed cheesesteak and probably the one they serve in heaven. N on-sandwiches aren’t just side attractions on the menu, though. There’s a plate of bucatini with a super savory plum tomato and pancetta amatriciana sauce. We believe liking this dish is a fundamental core value in a mate. Another good approach to Paesano's menu is to curate a DIY Italian buffet out of some golf ball-sized meatballs, smoked mozzarella sticks, and a potato arrosto made with, according to the restaurant, "all the pork fat we can muster." In the unfortunate event that you don't want cheese or cutlets in a dish, the Paesano’s team lets you go full Taylor’s Version and customize it with your preferences. After spending a year without Paesano’s, the return feels sweeter than before. Whether you want a sandwich during lunch, or an early dinner at an Italian Market spot you haven't been to 400 times with your family, each meal at Paesano's hits the mark. Consistency is knowing you can always get pasta that will incite a rant about the greatness of marinara, or a sandwich that will inspire an essay on sliced meats. Sure, it's hardly a lotto win. But, then again, you're not from Neptune Beach, Florida. " - Candis R. McLean
