Hinoki

Restaurant · Greenwich

1

@infatuation

"Equipped with a fryer, wood-fired oven, and a Traeger, this Japanese BBQ truck next to Saint Bread could theoretically prepare as many dishes as there are types of Pokémon. Even boring old chicken gets to have multiple evolutions—sometimes it's fried and served as crackly karaage that shatters when you bite into it. Sometimes it's smoked and basted in yum-yum sauce. Part of the fun of Hinoki is that you'll never know what meats and sides you're going to get that day, and their ever-changing menu only works because the food consistently hits. Come on a Saturday and you might see pork belly chashu take on the role of a pool raft, floating in almond tonkatsu broth. On a Thursday, that same pork belly might be cubed, cured, and lathered up in miso caramel. You might peep rice bowls topped with umeboshi BBQ sauce-glazed meatballs, or nutty, brown butter-roasted maitakes. Snacks like battered squash blossoms fly out of the truck on newspaper-lined trays. Want some corn? It’ll be stuffed into korokke with pumpkin and edamame, or charred with a shake of togarashi. photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters Hinoki's food may change, but the experience always feels like going to a low-key BBQ. Imagine showing up at a friend's backyard—except there's no coleslaw to be found and you don't have to sit in a plot of dead grass. Instead, you'll eat right on Lake Union holding negronis in plastic Chinet cups from the Heave Ho window across the patio. Hinoki operates from 4-8pm, which makes this place perfect for groups having laidback dinners or early drinks. Don’t be afraid to send a last-minute group text. The crowds are tame enough for you to easily grab a table, but not so tame that you’d get stares during an impromptu toast with your canned cinsault. And even though Lake Union won't be totally visible from your table, the setting is still ideal for soaking up those happy PNW summer feelings. If not, shove some vanilla bean panna cotta with coffee jelly and black sesame Oreo crumbs in your mouth. That should do the trick. At Saint Bread, you might agonize over the right ordering decision. (“Should I get the melonpan breakfast sandwich or smashburger?" We've been there, trust us.) Embrace not having a plan at Hinoki. You may not know what’s going to be on the menu that day, but we can tell you with certainty it’s going to be special. Food Rundown photo credit: Nate Watters Pork Belly If our boss is asking for us, tell her to follow the smell of these smoked nuggets slick with miso caramel. That's where we'll be. photo credit: Nate Watters Korokke Mashed pumpkin joins forces with whole edamame to make a light, panko-crusted croquette that’s perfect for warmer weather. Split one with a friend as a drinking snack. Chicken Thigh Dredged and fried with a side of sweet, mayo-heavy yum-yum sauce? Amazing. Smoked and charred with a slathering of yum-yum? Even better. No matter how it’s being prepared that day, make sure some type of chicken hits the table. Tri-Tip What ends up looking like sad prime rib from a country club’s carving station is actually some of the tastiest steak in town, complete with a piglet-pink middle and moat of rich, beefy jus. Don’t miss it. photo credit: Nate Watters Turkey Meatballs These may not be the moistest tsukune on planet Earth, but they taste great sopped in tangy umeboshi BBQ sauce, and that’s what counts. Japanese Street Corn There’s not much to freshly shucked blistered corn loaded with mayo, togarashi, and cilantro—except that it’s a great side to a surplus of summer meat. photo credit: Aimee Rizzo Coffee Jelly Panna Cotta Some things simply don’t make sense together, like the Gary Jules cover of “Mad World” and birthday parties. But some things do, like this salty vanilla bean-flecked panna cotta with cubes of coffee jelly. The whole cup is filled with stiff espresso flavor pockets suspended in creamy custard. Throw some black sesame-infused Oreo crumble on top and you've got yourself a majestic adult dirt cup." - Aimee Rizzo

Hinoki Review - University District - Seattle - The Infatuation
Ryan Warner

363 Greenwich Ave, Greenwich, CT 06830 Get directions

hinokigreenwich.com
@hinokigreenwich

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