40 years in, Golden Deli is still one of LA’s great Viet spots - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Golden Deli in San Gabriel has been open since the ’80s, and there are still lines trailing out the front door of this family-run restaurant six days a week (it looks like a sneaker drop in a SGV strip mall). That’s what happens when you’re a staple on every phở guide in the greater LA area—deservedly so—and also serve excellent chả giò with fried wrappers that crackle under your teeth like honeycomb. photo credit: Matt Gendal The menu at Golden Deli is more than 100 items long, but everyone, from whole families to couples in matching PacSun hoodies, can be found steaming their faces over basil-laced phở and munching on fried egg rolls. Golden Deli’s comforting pho broth is so light it’s nearly translucent, with little puddles of fat floating at the surface. The blistered, cigar-sized chả giò are a must-order, too. You can get them solo, over cold vermicelli, or, if with a group, as part of a finger food platter with grilled pork and squeaky shrimp loaf. On weekends, you might spend as much time in line as you do eating at Golden Deli, which, in theory, sounds ridiculous. (Tip: wait times at their second location in Temple City are usually half as long.) But waiting for Golden Deli’s phở beats traffic on the way to Little Saigon, especially when we know a bowl here will be as dependably excellent, just as it was a dozen times before. photo credit: Matt Gendal Food Rundown #2: Phở Tai Golden Deli’s pristine broth is beefy but balanced. You get a little kiss of cinnamon and star anise in there, and the timing for all the noodle soup’s components is spot on: stretchy, al dente rice noodles and rare steak that finishes cooking before your eyes. photo credit: Matt Gendal #48: Bánh Mì Bì Between the crunchy baguette, juicy sliced pork, and strands of chopped pig skin, this porky sandwich has tons of great texture. A little Vietnamese mayo or paté would go a long way though: It’s missing moisture to prevent all the bread and pork from sticking to the roof of your mouth. #89B: Com Chạo Tôm & Thit Nuong & Chả Giò Plain and simple, Golden Deli’s chả giò is the best we’ve had. These fried egg rolls are crackly, crispy, and chewy all at once, and are best enjoyed on this sampler with other delicious things, like salty shrimp sausage and lemongrass-y grilled pork. photo credit: Matt Gendal" - Sylvio Martins
