Bologna

Check out Osteria Bottega for bolognese classics. Literally everything is good except the wine list at Osteria Bottega, which needs to be much better to match the food on the table, but the lasagna, tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragu, and salumi more than make up for it.

For comfort food like passatelli in brodo, tagliatelle ripassate in padella, and lasagna, visit Le Golosità di Nonna Aurora.

Vag in Uffezi is awesome for filled pastas like balanzoni (spinach tortelloni filled with ground pork and ricotta).

Cremeria Santo Stefano is ace for gelato.

For espresso

For espresso

I love drinking natural wines at Enoteca Faccioli.

Another great spot for natural wine.

A poultry shop turned wine bar in the Mercato Albani.

Grab a quick pastry or aperitivo at Gamberini.

Be sure to pop into Mercato delle Erbe across the street from Gamberini.

For an even better market experience, head north of the Stazione Centrale to Mercato Albani.

You’re not going to want to miss Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo, a shop selling amazing brass pasta tools and other kitchen implements since 1783.

While you’re in the neighborhood, pop into Paolo Atti & Figli for a look at the homemade pasta.

For more kitchen tools, visit A. Pezzoli in Via Santo Stefano.

Visit Rina Poletti, founder of L’Accademia della Sfoglia for pasta making. She often takes her classes on the road!