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"In a dark, moody space off Pullman Market hung with velvet curtains, I sat at an L-shaped counter for a theatrical tasting experience that celebrates dessert from start to finish and enforces a strict no-phones, no-photos policy. The multicourse meal follows four rotating themes — acidic, umami, bitter and sweet — and dishes are rarely repeated from one season to the next; the creations are edgy and imaginative, from a mille-feuille of Fat Tailed Tomme cheese crackers with spring onion mousse, powdered sugar and caviar with gold leaf to beef short rib crowned with cotton candy spun in the middle of the room, and the chefs constantly engage diners, freely explaining their process and inspiration." - The MICHELIN Guide