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We began at a cozy walk-up counter with vertical rotisseries; the shawarma arrived tightly wrapped in white paper in a black plastic basket. I liked the crisp, tart pickles and the just-right amount of potent garlic sauce, and the pita was nicely crisped so it didn’t disintegrate in our hands. The sandwiches scored high for structure and ingredient ratio, though the chicken was a tad dry and could've used a touch more sauce — overall it set the standard for comparison on the crawl. - Dorothy Hernandez