Punta Caliza

"Set the scene.A whitewashed, thatch-roofed boutique hotel trying its hardest to keep a low profile despite the fact that it’s beautifully designed, on a peaceful corner just a block from the beach. What’s the story?Owned and run by a lovely family from Tabasco, Punta Caliza is a kind of slow-burn dream. The father had always wanted to own a home on Holbox. His cool-young-dude of a son, Cuauhtémoc, manages the hotel—his sister, Claudia, studied architecture at university and asked her professors to submit plans. Two very progressive designers from Guadalajara came up with a vision. The final result: a Mayan-style modern beach home. What can we expect from our room?Rooms are individual A-frame cabins done up almost entirely in sustainable red cedar wood—just rustic enough, and airy. One door leads to a private plunge pool, which in turn opens on to the hotel’s flooded patio. The burnished wooden walls and ceilings don’t require adornment, there’s an area for hanging clothes, a few built-in drawers and shelves, and a jug of purified water. You really don’t need or want much more on an island like Holbox. How about the food and drink?Breakfast is included and spotlights a daily special—chilaquiles or omelettes and toast. The restaurant does snacks rather than a lunch service, but talented Tabasco-born chef Ricardo cooks up memorable dinners when requested in advance—based around Mexican and Caribbean favorites (corn tortillas, sea bass, lobster, moles), with tropical fruits and exotic emulsions. The bar in the adjoining tower has some of the best views on Holbox, plus mean mezcal-based cocktails. Anything to say about the service?Laid-back and very friendly. No stiffness or stuffiness, which would never suit Holbox. Cuauhtémoc is keen to talk about the island’s natural wonders and its environmental challenges—and he can set guests up with kayaking guides and whale-watching trips. You feel well connected when you stay at Punta Caliza. Who comes here?In white, flowy tunics, in skinny jeans, in swimwear, or in not very much at all—the Punta Caliza crowd is small and a little bit secretive and ultra-civilized, but they like a discreet, intimate party, too. Talk is bookish and ecological, but come dusk, conversation lightens in step with the cocktails. How does it fit into the area?Holbox is growing outwards but for now Punta Caliza occupies a serene liminal zone between the protected reserve and the bustling little township. A few cool shops lie several blocks away and the beach is a block to the north. Birdsong is still louder here than golf carts. Is there anything you'd change?More substantial, proper Mexican lunches—this should be the go-to lunch retreat on the island. Maybe a little library in the tower? Anything we missed?No small kids allowed—with the flooded patio, little ones would have too much (noisy) fun. The pool is rightly a source of peace, as well as a place for a cool dip. Is it worth it—and why?It’s memorable—and that matters on Holbox. The island is changing and is at risk of losing its special vibe. Punta Caliza and a few other choice places enshrine the laid-back vibe and eco mission of the past." - Chris Moss