"The house overhangs the sea. With the water lapping beneath the decks, it feels like being on board a ship, sailing away. Stone steps lead straight down. There is the smell of ginger and mango and coconut and brine. The Caribbean touches the horizon with its rainbow of seven blues, while the breezes fill the house, still stirring the shells that were gathered by children a generation ago. The house is called Monasterio del Viento, the Monastery of the Wind, and I was staying in a room looking out to the ocean."