"In Panama City at Lo Que Hay, the fried chicken recipe Carles deemed finished enough to serve in 2017 showcases years of R&D: after experimenting with buttermilk, pickle brine, and American- and Japanese-inspired techniques, he landed on a version that met his goals for color and texture and has since evolved to include a dry curry rub, a gingery egg wash, and an umami-packed finishing salt. The restaurant also reflects his scale — he notes a very large kitchen there with multiple fryers (four on the line and three in production) and two kitchens in Panama — which supported the intensive testing and refinement of the recipe." - Cathy Chaplin