"The open kitchen runs lengthwise down this hole-in-the-wall restaurant, providing views of cooks as they meticulously knead, spin, and hand-pull tender and chewy noodles. Strands of frayed knife-cut noodles and long hand-pulled tendrils are a joy in any dish — sopping up spicy soy sauce with mixed pork. But in a spicy beef noodle soup, they’re revelatory — swirled beneath a glimmering broth teeming with bites of brisket and bok choy. Tip: Get in the virtual queue on Yelp so the table is ready when you arrive." - Janna Karel