"Nansense began with a good story: a vendor who got his start selling Afghan food out of a converted mail truck in Manhattan. Now, owner Mohibullah “Mo” Rahmati has opened his first restaurant, decamping to Beacon, New York. At this iteration of Nansense, it’s not about spotlighting the manti — the Afghan dumplings he came to be known for at the Queens Night Market. Rather, Nansense is now about Afghan-spiced smash burgers and basmati rice bowls with carrots, raisins, a “zesty salad,” and sauces like mint yogurt (the entire menu is halal). The latter in particular is one of the more memorable bowls we’ve had recently. It makes for a nice, healthy option when you’re in a rush (takeout is available, though there are a few tables inside)." - Emma Orlow