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"I wandered into the year-old Side Street Kitchen and was pleased by clean, fresh starters like a fishy smoked-trout dip and crisp little-gem lettuces dressed in light buttermilk, but the rotisserie chicken is the star: herb-rubbed with crisp skin and moist meat, served with three sauces (spicy chimichurri, mild curried yogurt, and salsa verde). The place feels like a sunny, simple modern diner that nonetheless has staying power — you order at the counter but can sit down with an $8 glass of actually drinkable rosé, and families pick up $40 family meals to go; there are oysters, too, and the food’s honesty makes it a welcome, nourishing option in town." - Rachel Levin