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"On the massive veranda of Rocco DiSpirito’s seasonal pop-up, which runs through the end of September, crowds gather for rustic Italian fare built on local bounty, and the paccheri pesto rosso exemplifies why. The Gragnano pasta arrives perfectly firm and chewy, catching a sugo rich with local heirloom tomatoes, chunks of lobster, and wild Gulf shrimp; it’s fragrant with basil and crowned with Montauk’s sweet, wild royal red shrimp. At $38 for a generous portion, it felt like a relative bargain." - Nadia Chaudhury