"In the spectrum of Italian-American cuisine, there’s restrained California-Italian, red-sauced New York-Italian, and then there’s Hawai‘i-Italian, which at Arancino means a lot of seafood pastas. The sea urchin spaghetti is a must, but the menu also includes spaghetti with tobiko and calamari, squid ink pasta, and penne with shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce. There are two other Arancino locations — a high-end version at Kahala and a casual cafe-style restaurant on the other side of Waikīkī — but the Beachwalk location falls perfectly in the middle of the two extremes. [$$]" - Martha Cheng