Review: Paradise Dynasty at the Americana at Brand | Eater LA

"Opened in the former Din Tai Fung space at the Americana at Brand just ahead of the holiday rush, this Singapore-based spot seems to be targeting mall crowds but stands on its own with Taiwanese and Chinese diasporic dishes like pan-fried noodles and hot and sour soup. Lines aren’t as long as at Din Tai Fung (for now). For soup dumplings, skip the rainbow sampler and order two 10-piece trays of single flavors: the original pork is a safe pick, juicy and thin-skinned, while my favorite, the spicy Sichuan, has a rich, oily interior with a brief but intense kick. Crispy, layered radish pastries arrive piping hot looking like cute golden-brown bugs and, after the soup dumplings, are the most memorable thing on the table. Pan-fried noodles with pork or chicken get proper wok char, with shredded cabbage and julienned wood ear mushrooms adding crunch. Fried rice topped with a fried pork chop — straight from the Din Tai Fung canon — is excellent, with meaty, dark-brown pork over fluffy rice that’s a real crowd-pleaser. The clean, minimal room leans casual rather than destination-worthy; it’s not quite date-night material, better for a low-key gathering with family and friends. Heads up: parking at the Americana is very overpriced, so either peruse the Glendale Galleria for its free parking beforehand or make a small purchase at Nordstrom for validation." - Matthew Kang