Atoma Is Seattle’s Newest Classic Restaurant | Eater Seattle

"It feels like it has been around a long time: inside an old Craftsman house in sleepy Wallingford, the space has a relaxed, lived-in elegance, yet it’s a 2024 arrival that’s already earned a boatload of praise, from a James Beard nomination to a spot on Eater’s Best New Restaurants in America—and it lives up to the hype and the relatively high price point. The food reads Pacific Northwest meets the Pacific Rim (think XO sauce made from geoduck on beef tartare), with such a focus on seasonality that specific recommendations are tricky. Two anchors remain: the rosette cookie that helped make the restaurant famous—delicate, sandwiching creamy farmer’s cheese and sweet Walla Walla onion jam between layers of savory cookie—so get one per person; and a baked Alaska that changes with the seasons, folding in ideas like parsnip in the ice cream or corn silk in the meringue to create one of the most inventive desserts in all of Seattle. For access, reservations usually open at the beginning of the preceding month (follow Instagram for drop reminders), or try the walk-in-only seats at the bar or in the solarium—an especially good strategy for single diners or couples if you arrive right when doors open at 4:30 or 5 p.m." - Harry Cheadle