"Some of the city’s most innovative contemporary American food comes from this cheery white and blue space. It boasts a tiny dining room and two eating counters, one of them overlooking the equally diminutive exhibition kitchen where the magic happens. Executive chef Christian Lowe often riffs on the Appalachian cuisine of her childhood, turning out creamy mascarpone-enriched grits with dandelion greens and a crumbly torchon of confit rabbit and foie gras, served with brittle sourdough cracker, tangy house-made relish, and carrot gel. Diners who don’t want to splurge on the venison chop or five-spice duck can content themselves with Shift’s excellent burger and famously pickled French fries. Don’t miss pastry chef and owner Dara Wong’s outstanding desserts, including wildly imaginative, goat cheese-dusted sorbets in flavors such as tarragon and raspberry-tamarind." - Nikki Buchanan
