A Critic Thinks Radio Anago’s Less is More Approach is ‘Worth the Plunge’ - Eater Chicago

"Mike Sula says that Radio Anago’s 'pure, no-bullshit approach to the fish makes a trip to this inky sea bottom of a dining room worth the plunge.' Wagyu tartare, which is sweetened by Asian pear, is a 'bloody red howl beckoning your ancestral primal beast to attack' and maki rolls, such as spicy tuna or sweet king crab with avocado, show a 'level of restraint.' That restraint is 'Radio Anago’s winningest feature. The fish is fresh, and it’s treated with respect.' On nigiri, charred spot prawn is 'as sweet as can be' and yields a 'cool, creamy interior' while unagi is 'lush and lacquered sweetly.' Fried chicken is sprinkled with gold leaf but has an 'unfortunate greasy grittiness' to it and dessert stars a white coconut cake that 'seems to float above the plate like an angel.' To drink, the Osaka old-fashioned is the 'real star of the show.'" - Jeffy Mai