
5

"Although the industrial, high-ceilinged room with concrete floors and big windows led one critic to liken it to a chain pub, the open-fire cooking largely redeems the surroundings: small pork crackling bites with jellied eel draw genuine ‘wow’ reactions, beef tartare is rated top-class, and an orzo with cuttlefish is singled out as a standout. Dishes are generally brightly coloured, light and well balanced, and the kitchen’s way with chips is repeatedly praised — proving that strong food can overcome an uninspiring interior." - George Reynolds